2009 Chapoutier Cotes du Roussillon Bila Haut Occultum Lapidem (Imports / France)

91-92(WA)From Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah planted in a mixture of gneiss, schist, and chalk, and vinified half each in tank and barrel (demi-muids as well as barriques), the 2009 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem - due to have been bottled in May - is scented with rosemary, sage, blackberry, mulberry, which are joined on a rich, expansive palate by marrow-rich meatiness and a striking, saline, iodine-tinged savor that I can only liken to shrimp shell reduction. (It there's a wine for "surf 'n turf," it's this.) The sense of clarity, brightness, and energy here is utterly infectious and the combination of pure dark fruits, invigoratingly pungent smokiness, and saliva-inducing salinity is bound to induce hunger - among other things for the next sip. Look for at least ten or a dozen years of stimulating acquaintance. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate No 195 June 2011